Ballymaloe Cookery School

Shanagarry IE, Spring 2018

Our interest had been triggered several years ago at a family dinner party hosted by my cousin Allison who had just returned from an extended vacation in Ireland. She is a wonderful cook and can be counted on to turn out some of the most delightful meals I can recall. Thus, when she raves about something to do with food, Fran and I listen closely.  We are “foodies” in every sense and love nothing better than a memorable meal.

Her visit to Ireland had included a visit to Ballymaloe House and Ballymaloe Cookery School in Shanagarry (in southern Ireland near Cork) and she regaled about her experience in the extraordinary hospitality and deliciously fresh foods she found at Ballymaloe.

In the fall of 2017, Fran an I had an opportunity to join some friends on a Queen Mary 2 Transatlantic crossing and upon arrival in Southampton, as our friends prepared to return to New York, we grabbed an Aer Lingus shuttle to the southern Ireland city of Cork and found our way to Ballymaloe House in Shanagarry for a short, two-day visit.  Our intent was two-fold.  First, we wanted to be certain our cousin Allie had not been led astray by excess Jameson’s (distilled a few miles from Shanagarry in Midleton) and that Ballymaloe was everything she claimed, and second, we were eager to test the international service offered by Norwegian Air in and out of our home airport of Providence (PVD) to multiple destinations in Ireland for extremely low rates.

While Cousin Allie had extolled the virtues of the Cookery School, she heaped high praise on the hospitality and service she had experienced at Ballymaloe House, a few kilometers up the road from the Cookery School. Our Fall schedule did not match the school’s offerings so we opted to concentrate on the hotel aspects of the property.  Being suitably impressed, we planned ahead to coordinate a visit in the Spring that would allow some options at the Cookery School.

The Ballymaloe Cookery School was established in 1983 and has become a leader in international cuisine through the preparation of cooks and chefs throughout the world with a focus on organic offerings and farm-to-table food.  Founders Darina Allen and her brother Rory O’Connell combined forces and developed a brand that is widely known for excellence in food circles.  All are widely recognized for their television appearances in the US and EU as well as numerous cookbooks with all sorts of yummy meals.

The Cookery School offers a year-round collection of dozens of courses ranging from the gold-standard of professional cookery, a 12-week course, to half day demonstrations (which are typically part of the 12 week-course).   The Cookery School is located in one corner of the 300 acre Ballymaloe House farm and maintains its own 100 acre organic garden for use by students and faculty.  It’s an extremely functional layout of buildings and gardens around a central demonstration hall (classroom), with a second demonstration hall that doubles as a school cafeteria. Another wing includes prep areas for students to prepare their various assignments. Both class rooms include large, workspace mirrors (over the prep counters and cooking components), and multiple wide-screen TVs for students and guests to view prep work and/or instructional videos.

The entrance to the school is via the Cookery School Shop which offers a collection of kitchen tools, uniforms, cookbooks, organic foods and related kitchen materials for the serious cook or chef.  It’s hardly a chrome and gaudy façade, but rather an unassuming,  down-home, county farm exterior that’s probably designed to be unpretentious for the serious work to be accomplished inside.

Our course was a half-day, demonstration class on brunches and included a delicious lunch prepared by students and served as a buffet to students  and guests by student cooks and staff members (including founder Rory O’Connell).  I am a brunch aficionado at home, so this was a perfect match for me and resulted in including our eldest son Will and his lady-friend Marj in my planning.

Buffet Lunch at Cookery School

Rory O’Connell serving Will and Fran.

  A delicious, home-cooked  lunch at school.

We had flown from Providence directly to Cork via Norwegian Air and spent two days relaxing at nearby Ballymaloe House prior to our Monday afternoon demonstration class.
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Entrance to one of the working gardens.

We had arrived a bit early to scope things out and despite the light drizzle, we managed to wander through the adjacent gardens and could watch the students working inside at their prep tables on assigned menus and related exercises for that evening or the following day.

Classroom wing next to garden.

The afternoon session in the primary demonstration classroom convened as soon as lunch was completed and consisted of a student rollcall (just like I remembered from my school days) and assignments for evening cheese-making activities.   For the next roughly four hours, we were given a fire-hose treatment of brunch recipes and meal preparations by Rory O’Connell who interspersed his preparation of cooking techniques with sage advice on safety, sanitation, food presentation and general restaurant marketing.  Rory and his staff of professional sous chefs dashed through roughly 36 brunch dishes and thankfully we had all received printed recipe hand-outs with encouragement to make copious notes in the margins.  I kept in mind that this afternoon was only one small snippet of the curriculum the 12-week students were working through. Thick and overflowing binders containing recipes and prep guides made the 12-week students stand out from the demonstration guests.

A highlight was at the end of the session when students and guests were invited to the front counter to sample the various dishes that had been prepared during the afternoon session. As each dish had been completed, staff runners had placed the various dishes in holding units (heated and/or chilled) to keep them fresh until eaten.Samples of the brunches.

My biggest take-away was that simple, organically sensitive meals, cooked simply and presented well were often superior to super-fancy or exotic.

Our group of guests enrolled in the brunch demonstration class were an international collection of foodies from places like Australia, Europe, US, Canada, Ireland, UK and Scandinavia.  It turned out the 12-week student body was from an equal blend of international destinations, all of whom looked forward to a professional career in hospitality.  One student was a noted French winery owner who was eager to open a restaurant at his vineyard. We had watched him conduct a private wine tasting of his wares for the management and sommelier at Ballymaloe House Restaurant the evening before our class and noted his wines were at the high end of the wine list. (We probably should have inquired about free samples…not).

We thought about dining off site for dinner that night, but decided to stay at Ballymaloe House to fully appreciate the efforts the hotel staff would put into their evening meal. Every meal is prepared from a daily menu based on the local availability of the foods. Everything is a farm-to-table delight, just as Myrtle Allen had envisioned when she began serving meals in the late 1960’s. Her daughter-in-law Darnia Allen picked up the ball and began teaching those cooking skills and formed the Cookery School at her home a few kilometers away.  In the interim decades, both Ballymaloe House and Ballymaloe Cookery School have become leaders in their fields with national and international recognition in hotel and restaurant hospitality.

As an after-action report, I must share an interesting observation with respect the use of organic, locally growth produce and foods.  I have often thought of the growth of “organic” foods sold at local markets was mostly marketing hype.  On this visit, our family group included two members who have suffered for years with various food sensitivities. One had been diagnosed with a gluten intolerance and had faithfully avoided products containing gluten to avoid the distress that would usually soon follow. The second had been diagnosed with a lactose intolerance and consistently avoided milk-based foods to avoid similar discomforts.

With one or two exceptions, all our meals were taken at Ballymaloe House or Cookery School, where both family members sampled a range of foods that normally would have triggered considerable intestinal discomfort.  No reaction!  To the point that the lactose intolerant member was enjoying glasses of raw milk (fresh from the barn), freshly prepared, cream-based sauces and ice cream without a hint of complaint.  Same with the gluten intolerant member eating a variety of homemade breads and rolls without the various preservatives found in most domestic flours. How delightful.

We will clearly be watching for other opportunities to re-visit the Cookery School in the future.

Interested?  Check it out:  http://www.cookingisfun.ie/

Shanagarry, Spring 2018

It’s been well over a decade since we last “enjoyed” a red-eye flight across the pond, but the price for a Norwegian one-way ticket to Ireland hovered around a hundred dollars, so it was hard to resist. (Note to self – next time spend the extra money and take the ship or a day flight as before).

It started at the Providence airport where we found Norwegian Air did not subscribe to the TSA’s Pre-Check program which meant our Government issued (TSA/Homeland Security) Global Entry cards were worthless. Off came the belts, shoes and whatever and out came the laptop.  Additionally, Fran was selected for a “discrete”, full body search that delighted her to no end.  Will and Marj loved it, because Marj has typically been the one selected for such honors and her passport had already triggered some sort of alert at the airline’s check-in desk that caused some staff consternation.

The Norwegian Airline check-in clerk had no clue if our in-flight meal (for which we paid extra) was a dinner or breakfast, so we opted to grab a meal at the airport just in case.  For five minutes we waited in a queue at the food court as the clerk ignored us as she tried to untangle a paper jam in her cash register. Finally, she looked up, smiled and advised everyone the only food (from well over a dozen colorful meal selections) were chicken tenders.  Oh yum, and we wandered further down the hall to a pizza joint for “dinner”.

The door to the plane closed right on time, but we were told that an unusually aggressive jet stream would cause a course adjustment that would add an additional hour to our trip to avoid the heavy turbulence along the usual route. Oh, and dinner would be served in about an hour.

We had booked emergency exit seats because of the additional legroom, but had unfortunately forgotten those seats do not recline and the new Norwegian 737-8 “Maxi” aircraft include seats probably designed for a city bus (rather hard and unforgiving) but appeared to be a tad wider than most 737 seats.  Thank goodness for the foam neck-ring pillow I had brought for the trip and my anticipated overnight “nap”.   For such flights in the past, my preferred seat was a window which allowed me to rest against a solid component rather than poor Fran or some inebriated garlic farmer (my usual seatmate). This trip was a mixed blessing because, although the flight was nearly completely full, the middle seat was empty. Fran was in a favored aisle seat across the aisle.  The downside was that the aisle seat in my row was occupied by a bearded chap who appeared to be roughly 6’8” tall and insistently talked to himself and managed to stand and do exercises when he was not reading one of several books. This lasted for the entire seven hour trip and resulted in just occasional dozes for me instead of the hour or two I had hoped for. So much for planning.

Arrival in the Emerald Isle was preceded by several hours of the loom of the prospective sunrise followed by a full bloom sunrise an hour or two before the lush green hills and valleys of southern Ireland appeared.

An hour or two prior to landing, the flight attendant woke up those who were sleeping (or dozing as in my case) with those chilling words “Is there a doctor aboard?”   Experienced travelers know that by the time they make that announcement, various assessments have been made by the crew and a dire prognosis has been rendered.  In other words, somebody was in deep doodoo.  Various uniformed crew members dashed up and down the aisle and focused on a passenger near the front of the plane where they spent the next several minutes with oxygen bottles and worried looks before finally settling down, having somehow dealt with whatever had triggered the alarms.

The remainder of the flight was basically uneventful until our arrival at the gate where EMTs boarded the plane and carted off a somewhat disheveled passenger in an ambulance before the other passengers disembarked.

(NOTE: In mid 2019, technical issues with the Boeing 737 Max 8 aircraft grounded most of Norwegian’s service between North America and Europe. The attractively priced airfares are now history. In September 2020, the EU re-approved the Max 8 so Norwegian may consider reestablishing service with that aircraft.)

Ireland is uniquely situated on the Atlantic Ocean that is directly impacted by the mild water temperatures delivered by the Gulf Stream that worked its way up the east coast of the US from the southern tropics. That option also delivered a considerable amount of rain and moisture to the region that results in the greenest of green landscapes one can imagine. I can attest that the late Fall and Winter moisture factors create a rather raw and blustery ambiance that encourages one to stay indoors during those seasons (Pubs or “locals” make ideal shelters).  I have no experience with Irish Summers but am told that air conditioning is not a requirement. (Probably quoted from a tourism guidebook.)

Anyway, arrival in Cork was rather uneventful and we quickly found our way to the car rental kiosk to take delivery of our wheels.  Would I be interested in a free upgrade? You bet (so long as it was not for a monster sized sedan that would not navigate the skinny Irish cart paths they call roadways (other than the motorways which are reasonably wide although going in the wrong direction).  As in my previous visit to Cork, I somehow had selected the rental agency with parking furthest from the main terminal. Will and I left our bags with Fran and Marj and headed out into the hinterlands to find our car which we had been told was a BMW (upgraded from a VW Jetta). We eventually found the space designated for our “BMW” and discovered “BMW” in Gallic must be translated as “Renault” because that’s what we found after clicking the remote key fob that flashed the car’s lights.  The previous driver must have been a Japanese midget because try as I could, there was no way I could fit in the car as configured.  Will and I finally figured how to reposition the seat manipulate the pedals so, with some major contortions I could crawl behind the wheel..although I needed to fully extend both arms to reach the steering wheel while my knees were fully bent to manipulate the pedals. (Designed for short legged midgets with long arms?)  Awkward to say the least.

In any event, once mobile, we figured out how to return to the terminal to pick up Fran and Marj and our luggage.  There we were met with a line of temporary “Police, No Parking” cones along the entire “Passenger Pick-up Zone” and a parking cop waving to us to move on. I am usually a strong advocate at following instructions, but I had no interest in driving halfway to Dublin to find a spot to park for thirty seconds to load our bags. Thus, I simply played “Stupid American” and once past the cop, I had Will jump out and reposition a cone or two and eased into the now open parking space as Fran and Marj scurried across the sidewalk to load our things.  As we closed the trunk (“boot” in Ireland), the cop finally turned around and discovered what mischief we had been up to and began waving his hands and yelling something I’m sure was in Gallic.  I merely shrugged my shoulders and politely waved to him and struggled back behind the wheel and dashed off, watching the exasperated cop replace the repositioned cone.

It was about that time we discovered the GPS device we had been told came with the car, must have been in the BMW we had been rented..but it sure was not in the Renault.  Ever the resourceful type, I had downloaded and printed directions from Mapquest a week prior to the trip, so Will was pressed into service as navigator and off we went.  Other than experiencing the same level of culture shock as being thrown into a stock-car race, the fifty-minute journey to Ballymaloe House in Shanagarry went without a problem.   I quickly rediscovered reflexes that had not been used in years and was glad the A/C unit evaporated my sweat before it became noticeable.

Arrival at Ballymaloe House was a highlight because it is nestled between hundreds of acres of verdant green, working farm pasture and bright yellow fields of rapeseed. Marj and Will were clearly impressed with the gorgeous views and Fran’s memorable smile recalled our past visit.

Marj and Will in Ballymaloe rapeseed field.

Our bags were quickly unloaded and we found our rooms were already cleaned and ready (two hours ahead of schedule) but we opted to sit in the drawing room to enjoy a spot of tea and some fresh scones to help decompress. We had pre-booked a driving tour of some nearby sites but discovered our late arrival (by an hour) had caused the scheduled guide to cancel our tour.  The Ballymaloe Reception desk simply rescheduled another firm and Plan B (winging it) went into action.

Front entrance of Ballymaloe House.

As we awaited arrival of our new tour guide, our other son Chris and his friend Maria walked into the drawing room to everyone’s surprise. (He was supposedly attending a training course in New Jersey and could not attend to Will’s horse or our cat at home in RI). Gasps from everyone and hugs all around as Chris described how he and Maria had snuck away two days earlier and flown into Shannon and driven down to Shanagarry to meet us. What a wonderful surprise. They knew of our plans and had secretly booked their flights and a room at our hotel and had been playing tourist for the 24 hours prior to our arrival.

Our tour guide turned out to be a young mother who seemed to dream of being an Indy Car driver. It will probably take weeks to iron out all the finger marks in the van’s armrests and upholstery from our ride to and from the nearby town of Midleton.  The woman clearly had a death wish as we careened along the skinny pathways in her big van (stone walls typically on either side with no breakdown lanes and speed limits for an Interstate).

Our revised touring plan placed a visit to the Jameson Whiskey Distillery in nearby Midleton as a top priority. (We had learned they offered free samples following a tour of the historic facility.).  The hour and a half walking tour was actually delightful and was a snapshot of Irish life, both commercial and personal,  over the past two centuries.
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Awaiting the Jameson tour.

Huge copper still at Jameson Distillery.

A feature of the facility was the largest copper still in the world..which we learned was one of several required to the making of a good whiskey.   Jameson reportedly brought “Scotch” whiskey to Ireland and made it their own.  We learned the primary difference between “Scotch” and “Irish” whiskey is in the process used to dry the barley (as basic ingredient). “Scotch” uses peat as a primary heat source. store whiskey and barrels are generally made off shore (often recycled from bourbon barrels from US distilleries). As a result, Scotch has a distinctive, smoky flavor as compared to a more mellow taste from well-used wooden barrels (used multiple times).

In any event, the tour was an eye opener, as was the sampling that followed. We also discovered the Jameson facility conveniently had a guest café, so lunch was another easy decision. I was almost tempted to ask for a beer, but settled on some iced tea to go with my delicious soup and sandwich.

Soup and Sandwich at Jameson Distlilery

The ride back to Ballymaloe with the death-wish queen (who really was a pleasant sort who just happened to drive like a maniac).  As it turned out, she had been born and raised in the area and took us on a nifty scenic route back to the hotel that allowed us to see sections of the area we probably would have missed without her input.

The realities of sleep deprivation became obvious to at least four of us as we drew closer to the hotel and all decided a nap was in order before dinner. And so it was.  Dinner started with cocktails in the Ballymaloe conservatory, a glass framed structure built into a wall of the former Norman castle and now decorated with various flowering plants and greenery.  This room was directly above our assigned rooms; the River Room for Fran and me and the Bamboo Room for Will and Marj. Chris and Maria were further down the hall also on the ground level in the Lily of the Valley Room. The view to the north included a small river and pond with swans and ducks and a hillside of green dotted with various dairy cows. Gorgeous.

Riverview Room

View of the rear (note castle component).

Our table was called and a five course delight followed, capped by a desert trolley out of a coffee table book.  No after dinner Port (our choice, although plenty was available), but no one complained.  The conversation had flowed at dinner and everyone was at peace.

Dessert trolley at dinner.

A full Irish breakfast kicked off the following morning.  Chris had been blown away with the diverse selections he had found the previous morning and he agonized over blood pudding or kippers as a choice to go with his scrambled eggs (that of course followed a bowl of porridge).

  Ballymaloe Irish breakfast buffet

Following our previous visit to Ballymaloe, we had spoken endlessly about the delicious porridge (oatmeal) we had enjoyed, and he found he totally agreed. Quaker Oats could not hold a candle to this slow-cooked porridge that practically melted in one’s mouth (especially with cream and brown sugar), Total yum.

Practically every food dish offered at Ballymaloe is gown or produced locally and from organic sources. The Allen family which owns Ballymaloe and nearby Ballymaloe Cookery School prides itself with its organic options (raising most of the beef, chicken, pork and vegetables on one of its adjacent farm plots that make up the 300 or so acres of the property.  The fish and shellfish on the menus are purchased from local fishermen at Ballycotton.

Chris and Maria’s short visit concluded after our leisurely breakfast and they headed north to Shannon while we arranged for a walking tour of the Ballymaloe House facility with one of the owners, Rory Allen.

                                                                                     Fran with Rory Allen, Will and Marj in the walled herb garden

Rory and his wife manage the “House” while other family members handle other aspects of the business (like the internationally renowned Ballymaloe Cookery School, the Ballymaloe Shop and the related food business).  The tour of the property was an historic eye-opener and Rory’s skills as a master story-teller were clearly evident.

An interesting point of note was a carved stone plaque in the massive wall of the original castle that now serves as an internal wall of Ballymaloe House. It commemorated the contributions of the Fitzgerald family (owners of the castle in the sixteenth century) in the various wars at that time between Spain, England and Ireland. (I admit that after Rory’s historical review and some additional reading on the subject, I still cannot say whose side the Fitzgerald’s were on.)

Fitzgerald plaque mounted in castle wall.

The Anglo-Norman castle that forms the core of the current facilities has been updated and reconfigured to meet the needs of the Allen family who have earned a reputation as leaders in the farm-to-table movement, using local, organically produced  foods and three generations of Allens have followed that tradition at Ballymaloe House and the Ballymaloe Cookery School a few miles down the road.

More excitement to follow as Chris and Maria headed back to the States and the rest of us prepped ourselves for an afternoon at the Ballymaloe Cookery School the next day.

My wife and I were both born and raised in RI, but were able to “escape” Rhode Island’s magnetic attraction for more than a decade and lived and traveled throughout the country as a military family,  but then settled back in the area in the early 1970’s and thus can officially call ‘Lil Rhody “home”.  Unfortunately, many Rhode Islanders beat themselves silly with complaints (some valid, some not).

It’s a tiny state with some unusual (some say “provincial”) attitudes regarding distance. As an example, the running joke is that for someone in Providence to visit Westerly (in the southwest corner of RI) one must “pack a bag” and be prepared to spend the night after an exhausting journey of about thirty miles. Trust me it’s true.  That level of silliness is why many native Rhode Islanders miss out on so much this wonderful state has to offer. Oh well, less traffic for us experienced (and non-provincial) types.

Providence is the capitol of this colorful state and is widely acclaimed as a foodie heaven..a well deserved moniker than has been earned over decades of food service ranging from fine dining to food trucks.  The ethnic influences or a variety of cultures have become a mecca for chefs who often have been trained at Providence’s own Johnson & Wales University; one of the preeminent proving grounds for the hospitality industry.  (We have run across J&W trained chefs in almost every corner of the world.)

We have attempted categorize this site into a series of destination and travel options that we have found worth recommending to others who have the ability and desire to discover new and different places around the world. This will always be a “work in progress” and will be tweaked as things change over time (like restaurants, hotels and attractions).

If you are visiting RI, welcome!  It can be a “foodies” delight (if you are into food like me).  Here are some places to visit (and eat):

Key West, Florida is one of those binary destinations that needs to be experienced to see where one “fits”.  You either love it or hate it…there seems to be no gray area.

I discovered Key West (a.k.a. The Conch Republic) roughly 25 years ago as a result of attending a conference at the Navy Base. I had been out of the country on Navy business and had looked forward to a long weekend at home in RI but got orders to report directly to Key West to attend a special security conference. I called my wife (whom I had not seen in several weeks) and asked if she’d like to meet me in Key West..and of course the answer was “Yes” (It was mid-February after all). So off we went into uncharted territory..and have never looked back.

We had booked accommodations at the Pier House (One Duval Street) which is still an wonderful hospitality destination on the Gulf of Mexico end of Duval Street in the heart of Old Town Key West. We had both arrived late in the evening and I was due at my conference at 7am (the Navy likes to get things going early).  The front desk advised the hotel’s restaurant did not open for breakfast until after 7am but noted there were a few small,  places along Duval Street that opened very early for fishermen or local tradesmen.

So here we were headed up Duval Street at 5:30am looking for breakfast.  It was a balmy low seventies and the city was reasonably quiet except for the sound of rushing water a block or two ahead. As we approached,  I saw water streaming out of an open door and noted the sign “Sloppy Joes” over the establishment. Inside, I could see chairs piled on top of well worn tables and an older chap washing debris out the door using a fire hose.  “Hey, my kinda place” I thought to myself as we jumped over the swirling water on the sidewalk.

In the next block we spotted “Shorty’s Diner” (I think that was the name, but it unfortunately is now long gone.) and headed in.  We had just entered a time warp to the 1940’s and a central casting crew of cooks and waitresses working on a Hollywood set of every stereotypical diner ever built…only this was the real thing.  There was even a picture of Harry Truman up over the cash register on the faded lime green and yellow wall over the stainless steel prep counters.  What’s not to like?  Our steaming hot coffee and plates of eggs over-easy, bacon, toast and hash browns were in front of us in less than two minutes and life was good again.   The people watching was terrific (as you might expect at 5:30 in the morning). The resident wino was at one end of the counter trying to shake off the cobwebs with a droopy cigarette, a cop was seated nearby working on a coffee and piece of pie and a couple of truck drivers were busy chatting up a storm with one of the waitresses.  The smell of brewing coffee, cigarette smoke and bacon grease permeated everything…and I was totally relaxed, glad to be “home” in America.

That visit to Key West in the mid eighties turned out to be the first of what has turned-out to be an annual trek that has enabled my wife and I to totally enjoy a corner of the universe that is totally unique in so many ways.   We have discovered the best way to really enjoy the sights and sounds of Key West is to wander down the side streets and alley-ways which constantly seem to blend a host of cultures and lifestyles. The part I enjoy the most is the ability of these cultures, styles and sub-cultures  to live together with considerable tolerance. Even the Key West Police seem to understand the unique values that thrive in a somewhat open society and are flexible in their dealings with the public.

The best way to see Key West on an initial visit is to take a Conch Train or a Trolley Tour. The Conch Train is an open-air, guided tour that makes occasional stops along the route and takes you literally around the entire island and gives you a good sense of what’s around and where things are.  The Trolley Tour follows a somewhat similar path but has windows and protection from the elements if the weather is funky.  We have taken both and found them to be worth the investment.

The main drag (pun intended) is Duval Street which runs from the Gulf of Mexico to the Atlantic Ocean in roughly a mile and a half.  To many visitors (mostly cruise ship passengers), this is the center of the Key West Universe and these folks believe it reflects all of Key West. Totally not true. The Gulf end of Duval is packed with tee shirt shops and honky tonk bars while the other end of Duval caters to art galleries and more laid-back restaurants. One has to get off Duval to capture the essence of Key West. That isn’t to say Duval is totally without redemption, because it does have a good mix of eating venues and shops, it’s just that once off Duval, one tends to get a broader picture of the cultural nuances that make the place so wonderful.

At least once during a visit to Key West, you absolutely MUST attend a sunset “viewing” at the Mallory Docks down near the Gulf of Mexico end of Duval Street. This is a daily, and memorable (free) experience that challenges a single description because it varies from day to day.  For starters, it is an opportunity for Key West residents and guests to rate the “quality” of the sunset. Who would ever think to do that except the residents of the Conch Republic?  In reality, it’s simply an opportunity to hold a party..and even that term would be a stretch.  It’s on open-air party,  carnival,  flea market, and social event that draws hundreds of folks every evening to watch the sun sink silently into the Gulf of Mexico.  One can watch magicians doing  tricks, sword swallowers doing their thing, pigs walking on tight-ropes, craftsmen making jewelry, artists painting portraits, straw weavers making hats,  vendors selling food and drink…the list goes on….until the minute or two before the sun actually sets and things grow quiet, with total concentration on watching the sunset and the round of applause as a gauge of the “quality” of the day’s final view of the sun.  You could go every day and find a new experience…but I typically manage to only go once during a visit for my sunset fix.

What follows are snippets of reviews of places (mostly places to eat and stay) I have collected over the years.  Many have appeared in Trip Advisor while others were written as part of a semi-blog to friends and colleagues.

Places to Stay:

Navy Lodge, Sigbee Point

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Reviewed for Trip Advisor March 3, 2013.    Last visited January 2020

Note: This property is restricted for use by active duty and retired military and DOD (Check for specifics).
My wife and I discovered Key West in the mid-80’s while I attended a military conference and we have returned every year since. We have stayed at a cross section of better hotels all over Key West and have rented multi-bedroom houses to accommodate friends and family.   About five years ago, a retired National Guard Adjutant General chided me for never checking out the Navy Lodge at Sigbee Point. He shamed me into it and we have never looked back. Thanks General. It’s the only way to go; especially now that the Navy Lodge has installed a reliable and free Internet access that had been my nemesis from our very first visit.
About five years ago, the Lodge underwent a major “refreshment” and thanks to a terrific staff, they have kept the place almost like new. The rooms are located on two floors (downside – no elevator) but are roomy and squeaky clean with one or two beds, flat screen TV, a comfy chair, a work/dining table and chairs and two very large dressers. An adjacent kitchenette includes an apartment sized fridge, a two-burner electric cooktop, stainless sink, a good sized microwave, a coffeepot and loads of kitchen cabinets and drawers fully equipped with pots, pans, silverware, glassware and dishes for four. Daily housekeeping service is also included.
Sigbee is primarily a military housing, dependent’s school and recreation area (with a huge RV Park) and as such is protected by Navy security personnel who take their job very seriously ( ID checks, strict speed enforcement, etc.). Although it’s a hike to Old Town (a rental car is a necessity), Sigbee is extremely quiet in comparison to almost every place in Key West where the incessant, high pitched drone of chainsaw-engine motor bikes and scooters will drive you nuts (even at the high end hotels).
A word of caution: rooms book up quickly during the high season, so plan on reserving a room at the sixty day mark (the earliest date you can make them) or risk loosing out.
If you want the action and high energy level of Old Town Key West, this is not the place to stay. But for $99.00 a night, you can’t find a better rate on the entire Island….and the folks are just plain nice. Do it!

Lighthouse Court, Whitehead Street

“Great location. Downhill From There”

Reviewed for Trip Advisor April 15, 2014     (Note: New ownership and name in 2020)

Every hotel or inn has a room next to the ice machine or the elevator that everyone complains about..and perhaps it is Room 1A at the Lighthouse Court that is the hub of my utch. After driving in circles for a while, we managed to find an offsite parking space and lugged our bags roughly three blocks to the front desk where our greeting was warm and cordial. (40 rooms and roughly nine parking spaces for guests. Hmmmm?). We were directed to room 1A, in a two-guest-room cottage nestled at the rear of the property (thankfully well away from the traffic and Hemingway House crowds on Whitehead Street at the front of the property). Ah, now to unpack…but wait..there’s no luggage rack…OK, use the bed…but wait, there’s no closet…just some hooks on the wall over the dinky little bureau. Oh dear. Maybe if we put the suitcases on the little bench next to the door, that will work? At least if we turn sideways we can slide along the walls to access the bed. Tiny, you say??? Well, time to check on emails..but wait..there’s no desk..and that’s not a problem because the WiFi signal is barely intermittent at best. Time to visit the front desk. All smiles and a wonderful tap dance. The desk clerk even suggested I could rig a tray on a luggage rack to double as a desk. But wait..there’s no luggage rack. Oh dear. Would I like an upgrade to a larger room? Oh, at the higher rate, of course. Bait and …. whatever? Maybe it was because I booked online (not with TripAdvisor) and prepaid for my “discounted” rate that worked out to $350/night. But wait..the hotel’s rate card shows I paid the full rack rate. “Sorry, there’s nothing we can do” – so sayeth the desk clerk. Ah, hang in there Skip, it’s only four days.
So then I discovered the best WiFi location (and charging plug) was in the “Mojito Bar” next to the pool. That made for great people watching because hotel management had posted a sign by the front of the hotel advertising “Public Rest Room” for anyone waiting in line to visit the Hemingway House across the street. The queue was a steady stream of interesting folks to use the facilities. Nothing like some peace and quiet?
“Breakfast” was another interesting experience. Bagels, yogurt and occasionally some fruit. Oh yum. Thank goodness Blue Heaven (restaurant) and a Crepe place were around the corner. Even the coffee was only lukewarm. Ah, delicious.
As we packed our bags after four nights, I reminded myself that my wife and I had made a couple of excursions (including a transatlantic) on the Queen Mary in a beautiful stateroom (larger than the cubby at the Lighthouse) that included three VERY complete meals and extraordinary levels of service for about $310/night.
Sadly, as I brought all my concerns to the property manager, all she could do was express her “deepest concerns” and wished I had contacted management earlier. I pointed out I viewed her front desk staff as her direct representatives and they appeared totally disinterested in dealing with my concerns.
Bottomline: Would I stay there again? – probably not, but certainly not in the cubby that barely passed as a “room”.

Garden’s Hotel, 526 Angela Street

“Over the Top”

(First posted 2005)

Fourth visit to this Key West charmer. Nervous at first due to new ownership, but our concerns were dashed immediately on arrival. A glass of bubbly at the reception desk and music from the grand piano in the sitting room convinced us that things had not changed. Here’s a small (but not inexpensive) gem in the heart of Old Key West. The rooms have been freshened and the gardens (out of a picture book) have been thinned (the right way). Sorry, no chrome and gaudy, but that’s why folks stay here.

(Updated 2015)

     The Gardens consists of roughly a city block of buildings and gardens crafted from an old, tropical estate by hospitality experts with taste and vision. The “Main House” (lobby, wine bar, reception room and sometime breakfast dining area is a focal point of the property that open to the rear on a small pool and series of smaller buildings that have the best rooms on the property.  Each  large and spacious room is tastefully decorated in period furniture and includes bathrooms to die for. (Note: The only rooms I would not recommend are those over the reception area in the “Main House”. The late week crowds who enjoy the after-dinner piano bar in the breakfast/ reception area tend to get a tad noisy as the evening progresses. Fair warning.) The out-buildings are separated by a series of decades-old tropical gardens that makes one totally relaxed. A comfy and informal pool-side bar tends to the focal point of afternoon and evening conversations and is the locus of Sunday jazz performances featuring small groups of local and nationally recognized musicians.

  The Gardens is  one of the more expensive places to stay in Key West, but if a truly delightful, laid-back experience in a relaxing, up-scale environment is your preference, this is the place for you.  No on-site restaurant, but there are loads of places to eat nearby. One block off Duval in the heart of Old Town Key West.  Parking is at a premium and reservations may be tight, so plan ahead (especially during the high season).

Hyatt Beach House Resort  5051 Overseas Highway (At the northernmost  spot on Key West)

(Modified from a Trip Advisor posting March 2015).      Last visited Feb 2019.

Although the inexpensive options at the Navy Base are my first choice, those properties are often booked well in advance and are tough to get. This year we planned to include our two adult sons as our guests and this required two bedrooms. The Navy housing units were only available for the second half of our ten day winter visit. We locked in the Navy quarters for the second half and for the first half we opted for the Hyatt Beach House Resort at the northernmost tip of Key West. We knew it was several miles from the “action” of Duval Street (and the incessant drone of chainsaw-engined motorscooters) but welcomed the break. We needed two bedrooms and a kitchen and Hyatt delivered in spades. Spiffy clean and quiet (mostly). Guests who plan to visit throughout the island or the lower keys definitely need a rental car or a good pair of legs for a bike. (The hotel has a shuttle service of sorts but charges a fee for its use). The property has a beach (one of the few in Key West to offer such an amenity, but it’s not what I would classify as “resort quality” simply because of its size).
The property itself calls itself a “Resort” and that is also a stretch. We loved our stay, but only needed a homebase for our day trips and did not anticipate using the so-called “resort” options. We were delighted at the pre-paid rate we enjoyed (through a popular on-line booking service) until we received a $76.00 “resort fee” as we checked out. Ouch! Why not bundle it into the rate and avoid upsetting guests with the fine-print “gotcha”?
Would we stay there again? Probably..but I’d have a “chat” with management about their so-called “resort fees” before I booked things. Great property – silly “gotchas”.

(2016 update)  Went back for a five night visit and were of mixed emotions.  The room/suite was well appointed (as before) but was not as clean and well maintained as I had hoped. Heavy black dust on the floor and mildew in the shower and a malfunctioning sliding door (repaired within minutes of reporting it).  Considering the cost, next time we might consider renting a house for the same investment.

2018 Update:  Following the 2017 hurricane, management managed to repair and update the property and re-staffed key positions. Had a delightful visit.

Other Options to Consider:  If you plan to stay in Key West for more than a week and are not married to a list of amenities like daily housekeeping, room service,  concierge, etc,  seriously consider renting a house. I don’t recommend this for your first visit to the Conch Republic, but having gone this route over a half dozen times, I can highly recommend it. First and foremost, identify your specific needs. Do you need a pool, a gourmet kitchen (we did – we are foodies), a quiet neighborhood, parking, multiple bedrooms, etc.? Have a rough budget in mind and then track down an experienced rental agent to walk you through the offerings. Most professional rental agencies will attempt to match your needs with your budget and coordinate the rest. Do an online search for “Key West Rentals” (or similar) and you will get a sense of what the range of  options is available. This is where a knowledge of the island will be useful. (Example: There are new, and attractive rental properties in or adjacent to neighborhoods that might make one uncomfortable..but you should know about those areas beforehand or a slick rental agent may try to ease you into a place you may not enjoy.).  Rental prices may appear high but should be compared to the rates at a better hotel in the area to have a better perspective.)

Places to Eat

Margaritaville, 500 Duval

Reviewed for Trip Advisor February 2012. Last visited Feb 2020.

It started over twenty years ago on our first night in Paradise (Key West) and has been a first-night requirement every year since. Margaritaville is not just a place, it’s a destination. It’s the original one…and reflects almost everything I complain about in restaurants..and yet I keep coming back with a smile. Our needs are simple: My wife needs a top-shelf margarita while I prefer a “bottom-shelf” version because I will soon not know the difference. These will keep us occupied as we wait for our “Cheeseburgers in Paradise” (which are always cooked perfectly and totally delicious). Gotta have a couple more margaritas to wash everything down. A big slice of Key Lime pie (if there’s any room) tops things off.
Margaritaville is noisy (both inside and out) with boisterous customers at the bar, on the balcony and at the tables. The Harley’s with no mufflers that cruise by the open front of the building somehow always need to rev their engines as they pass and the sing-alongs with the Jimmy Buffet tunes are of course a requirement. But hey, this is Key West, and I’ll leave my attitude home on the shelf.

Last visited 2020

Reviewed February 28, 2012

You’d miss this place if you were not paying attention. It’s tucked in to an office and condo complex between Duval and Simonton Streets with a couple of other interesting restaurants we plan to try later.
“Pasta” is an appropriate name rather than “Pizza Cafe” that showed up on our bill. I’m sure they prepare all sorts of pizza, but no one near us went that route. Everyone appeared to have some variation of pasta that was cooked to perfection. I selected meat lasagna and my wife selected angel-hair pasta for her main course. Both were in the southern Italian style, rich in tomato sauces and garlic seasonings. The lasagna was served in an oval baking dish and had been finished with the cheese topping in the oven (or broiler). Monster proportions. Reasonable wine selections at modest prices. We selected an Antinori Sanat Christina Sangiovese/Merlot/Cab blend that was just perfect with our pasta.
The service was a tad rocky at the start but was soon overcome with enthusiasm by our server.
The weather was equally delightful and allowed a comfortable evening under the trees and stars in the square next to the restaurant.
We will be coming back to try some other dishes.

Blue Heaven, Petronia Street

“A “Must Visit””

Reviewed March 20, 2009.  Last visited Feb 2020.

As long-time Key West visitors, Blue Heaven is one of those places that absolutely requires our visit at least once every trip. It’s a hoot and thankfully has changed very little since we first sampled their breakfast fare well over a decade ago. Don’t expect linen table cloths…in fact, expect to compete with several chickens for your table…but that’s part of the charm and ambiance. It’s not unusual to wait for a table (umbrella-covered and outside in the backyard), but you can play ping-pong, listen to a musician strumming under a lean-to, and/or just sip a coffee (or other libation) while people (and chicken) watching at the Tiki Hut bar. The tables are arranged under a canopy of several old trees with a “floor” of brick, stone and hard-packed sand. The breakfast food is “yummy” and we’ve sampled almost everything on it over the years and never been disappointed. It’s open in the evenings, but we have never sampled their dinner menu. It’s a total tourist trap..but nonetheless wonderful. Kick-back and enjoy.

As an aside, it’s not unusual to have an extended wait for a table. Visit the souvenir shop on the premises but then wander next door to Besame Mucho. Here is a gift shop that’s a perfect foil (opposite) for Blue Heaven: a classy snapshot of French and Latin tastes in linens, collectibles, kitchen gadgets, perfumes and all sorts of nice things for the ladies.  For the guys, there are chairs on the porch to people-watch on Petronia Street with a resident cat or two.

2016 Update:  In our many visits to this delightful destination, until this year we had not included an evening meal. Gotta tell you, it’s worth a visit.  The hustle and bustle  of the daytime crowd (and cruise line visitors) is gone, most of the chickens have gone home to roost and a certain Conch Republic charm settles in. The meals are generous and well presented and a guest can just sit back, relax and enjoy.

2018 Update:  This visit was a less than memorable one, primarily due to the highly amplified music from the guitar-playing live musician. Unfortunately (for us), we were seated next to the “stage” (a porch shed) and the speakers (really not needed) were cranked up to max volume. As a result, what would have been a fun-filled, brunch conversation turned into a painful silence with no help from management who refused to acknowledge the issue. Hint: Don’t accept a table near the bandstand.

Grand Cafe Key West, 314 Duval Street

People Watching Heaven

The Grand is one of those spots right on Duval that’s a step above the throngs on Duval and just behind a small fence of shrubs that gives a full few of the crowds while maintaining a small degree of privacy.  Lunch was quite good – mine a ham and brie pannini with a Margarita (just OK) while my wife ordered a turkey pannini and a Pinot Grigio.
The folks at a nearby table had the right idea – they ordered a whole bottle of white wine and a couple of sandwich and settled in for a leisurely, mid-afternoon delight of people watching. That looked heavenly in retrospect..wish we’d thought of it.  Service was a bit slow, but hey, it was a Saturday afternoon in the Conch Republic where it was in the mid-80’s.

Visited February 2013

Kennedy Cafe,  924 Kennedy Drive

Reviewed for Trip Advisor Feb 2014

My bad. We started visiting this unassuming, strip mall restaurant four years ago and discovered I have never reported it before…probably because it’s such a closely held secret among locals and visiting foodies like my wife and me.
If linen table cloths and tuxedo wait staff is what you seek, look elsewhere. If delicious (if not eclectic) international food is your cup of tea, this is the place. The menu opens as breakfast with a cross section of “Cubans” (whatever you might enjoy, smooshed between halve of a fresh Cuban roll). This morning’s offering on my plate was a ham, egg and cheese Cuban while my wife enjoyed scrambled eggs and grits. (a rather all-American combo).
The owners are Uzbekis and the menu claims to be “Healthy Mediterranean Cuisine”. I confess I have never tried their Italian specialty dinners, but over the last few years during annual visits, have worked my way through their Middle Eastern delights and loved every bite .
Last night’s shared dinner consisted of a lamb and potato combo wrapped in a pastry shell (not unlike a calzone). Absolutely delicious with a chopped fresh tomato/garlic/onion/dill salad. With that, we enjoyed a combo kebob of lamb, chicken and ground beef served on individual skewers on a bed of mixed rice (with carrots and chick peas). (huge portions)
Our server was Latvian and suggested a Russian beer which went perfectly with the meal.
Again, this is hardly a fancy-schmanzy place but is perfect for those who like to push the envelope in terms of ethnic eating delights. Kennedy Cafe underwent a facelift during the past year and dressed things up a tad…but it still does a huge take-out/delivery pizza and food business. that keeps a constant bustle near the door. Not to worry…it’s clean as a whistle and worth the time to find it. If visiting without wheels, it’s better to grab a cab because it’s located in a semi-commercial area near the north end of the Island, not close to anything.

Last visited: 2020

Banana Cafe, 1215 Duval

Revisited February 2012

Note:  2018 update: Seven Fish has relocated to a larger location and is no longer on Olivia St.

Latitudes, Sunset Key

This is our favorite dining venue in Key West..and probably the most expensive…with good reason. Latitudes is located on Sunset Key, a Westin Resort property made up up condos and high-end luxury accommodations accessible only by launch (and reservations) from the Westin Hotel in Key West . It’s the ultimate in upscale, tropical dining in Key West. We have enjoyed lunch and dinner and both exceeded our expectations (which can be rather high).     Reservations are made through the Westin Hotel and include the launch departure time from the Westin Marina. It’s a ten minute ride which drops you off at the Sunset Key pier where you will find Latitudes Restaurant at the head of dock, overlooking a quiet beach and partially exposed bar and cocktail area. Weather permitting, you can request a beach table (literally on the beach with blazing torches for an evening dinner) or in or near the main facility in a more protected setting. I recommend those arrangements be confirmed when making your reservation. In any event, the service is impeccable by extraordinarily well trained staff and a delightful menu consistent with a high-end dining venue.  This is the place to go if you really want to go “over the top” in Key West.   Rather expensive, but highly memorable.

Last visited 2018

Five Brothers  930 Southard, Key West  (or on Ram Rod Key on Rt #1)

Here is a real, local “joint” that doubles between a fast-food place and a convenience store.   It’s well off the beaten path and in a pretty-much residential neighborhood, but totally worth the trek.  We discovered Five Brothers at least twenty years ago (yes, there were five brothers and probably there are a few still around). We had rented a house a block or two away and discovered Five Brothers’  Cuban coffee and sandwiches were mandatory stops at least once a day.  My usual first cup of coffee every day quickly became a Cafe con Leche in my flip flops and tee shirt as the sun rose in the morning as I’d grab a copy of the local paper and a second cup for my wife and head back to the house to wake up and face the day.  Lunch would become a deliciously yummy, Cuban sandwich from the little counter in the back and even tinier kitchen through the little pass-through window from the store.  Sorry, no linen tablecloths or napkins… heck, no tables either. Grab a folding plastic chair on the sidewalk outside or take your yummies home. It’s a blue-collar dynasty with cop cars, ratty pick-up trucks and various old bikes parked outside..but remarkable food inside. They have an interesting (albeit limited) menu but I confess I have only sampled their Cubans and pulled pork sandwiches. It’s worth the trip. They also have an annex further up the Keys on Ram Rod Key on Route #1 that has a larger footprint and a screen porch out back with tables and plenty of parking.  Note: If you spot Oxtail soup on their menu..grab a cup or a bowl. It’s worth writing home about.

Places to Eat Off Island

Geiger Key Marina Smokehouse, Geiger Key (Mile Market 10, Big Coppit Key)

Terrific “Backside of Paradise” that’s worth your trip if you are looking for a break from Key West and the high prices and poor service you might get a fancy place. This is a tee shirt, ball-cap, shorts, beer and BBQ place with varnished picnic tables and loads of fresh shrimp and delicious, smokehouse BBQ and other delicious and reasonably priced food.  Be sure to try their blackened fish sandwich.  Yum.

Right on the waterway and under the approach and departure flight paths to Boca Chica Naval Air Station.  Live music on many evenings.
It’s tough to find (off MM-10 on Big Coppit Key) but you will enjoy the relaxed atmosphere and laid back attitude of Geiger Key.

Updated 2015

Last visited 2020

Little Palm Island,  Little Torch Key  (Mile Marker 21?)

This is one for your bucket list if you crave fine dining in a tropical setting. It truly deserves the international awards it has received for dining excellence.  Only by reservation, it’s a fifteen minute boat ride from the Little Palm Reception Center right off Route #1 and you are greeted dockside by a dining hostess who will escort you to your table. Weather permitting, you will be seated on the porch overlooking the totally private, sandy beach, right on the Atlantic. It’s also not uncommon to see Key deer browsing or grazing next to the porch adjacent to your table.  The menu is not overly ambitious, but features an assortment of delightful tropical dishes (a blend of French and Latin) that will be worth writing home about. Plated and served to perfection, the well trained staff are ever present and available but totally unobtrusive as one might expect at a fine dining venue.  We have only eaten lunch at Little Palm Island (several times) but have reviewed the dinner menu and plan to visit at some time in the future.  Expensive, but highly worth the investment.

Updated 2014, Revisited 2015 and 2017

Note: Little Palm Island was practically destroyed in the hurricane of September 2017 but is being rebuilt with an expected re-opening date of 2019.  Note: It is now reopened but we have not had an opportunity to visit.

P’Town is an experience. That’s the best description I can give this wonderfully funky destination. Fran and I have been visiting P’Town for almost two  decades and have collected observations about a variety of places to stay, visit and dine. Here are a collection of some Trip Advisor postings and general observations I’ve made over the years:

P’Town truly is an experience, and one that varies from week to week and season to season. From Memorial Day through the end of September it can be a chaotic party of fun and frivolity.  Spring and Fall “shoulder” seasons a a bit more restrained and winter can be sleepy hollow but nonetheless delightful.  It’s the mix of people and cultures that make it all work.

The city has two basic (and parallel) thoroughfares: Commercial Street and Bradford Street. During the summer, Commercial Street ( a one-way street running from east to west) becomes a pedestrian mall (or so the pedestrians seem to think). Car and truck traffic is permitted but sidewalks are at a premium (when they even exist), forcing pedestrians into the street where they compete with cars and wrong-way bicycle riders. Local drivers stay off Commercial to avoid making pedestrians speedbumps. The bulk of the shops, galleries and restaurants are either on Commercial Street or within a block of it.  The easternmost portion of Commercial (north of the Ferry landing) is loaded with interesting galleries and unique shops while the restaurants and hotels tend to cluster within a few blocks of the City Center (near the Ferry Landing and City Hall). The west end features some charming hotels and restaurants with a smattering of fun shops and nifty homes and side streets. My personal observation has been that the experienced P’Town visitor will stash their car in one of the municipal/public  parking lots (off Bradford) and walk (or bike) while in town. Guests staying in the West End should understand that it is a hike to the center of town and that a bike or a cab might be a better bet (especially in the evening after some liquid refreshment).  There are a number of top-notch places to stay in P’Town and we have used TripAdvisor as a good benchmark in making our choices over the years. A cautionary note on  media reviews – we have seen a tendency for newer properties (savvy  B&B’s in particular) to engage in social media hype to puff up their ratings and reviews from influential media outlets..so just be cautious (especially with newer properties).

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Visited October 2014

The Pointe Restaurant

What would, could or should have been a delightful anniversary celebration was anything but, thanks to a General Manager who never got the memo about the importance of serving customers as guests. We are annual visitors to P’Town and had looked forward to dining at The Pointe which positioned itself as an upscale, white linen, classic dining venue. On our arrival, the person (subsequently identified as the General Manager) escorted us to the doorway/step to the dining porch and with his menus, waved us in the general direction of three tables next to the windows (with a wonderful view of the landmark Pilgrim Monument). He lagged behind as we decided which table to occupy (lacking any guidance from the GM) and seated ourselves, afterwhich he delivered the menus and wine list. (No big deal, but being appropriately seated would have been helpful). The lighting was romantically (?) dark and required use of a pocket-light to read the menu. My wife and I immediately noted that the so-called background music was a blend of up-tempo oldies being blasted at rather high volume. We are fans of Elton John, but the volume and selection seems a bit inappropriate and we asked our server (Tom) if the volume could be reduced and the selection modified. He took our order and promised to look into the matter. (A neighboring dining guest thanked us for making the request). The volume remained high, but the music selections wandered to contemporary, country and western and rap as we waited for our meals with minimal conversation to avoid yelling. With the service of our meals (the food was excellent) I again asked our server if some adjustment to the volume and/or music selection could be made and again were advised that it would be “looked into”. Nada.
Finally, after paying our bill, I inquired if I could speak with the manager and was directed to the person who had originally seated us. I complained that the volume and music selection did not seem appropriate for a high-end dining venue and his saccharine smile signaled me he was aware of my earlier requests and appeared totally disinterested in resolving my issues. His response was classic. “I’m sorry you were disappointed. I’ll bring it up with the owners” and smiled in a smarmy fashion once again.
How easy would it have been to have cranked down the volume to a tolerable level and to have punched a button on Pandora to have blessed The Pointe with an “Excellent” evaluation. My option is obvious – there are other fine dining venues in P’Town who will continue to get my business. The Pointe will not.

Visited October 2014

Joon Bar + Kitchen

133 Commercial St, Provincetown, MA

“A P’Town Gem”

What a nice “find”! Saturday night and no reservations and luck was with us. The delightful hostess seated us at the bar and almost immediately the place was jammed..and we soon discovered why. Chuck the barman put us at ease and another customer at the bar suggested some menu items that were spot on: A pork cassoulet and a multi-cheese and local sausage flat bread were soon headed our way and the barman helped us make some wise wine choices that worked perfectly. OMG..talk about mouth watering!!! We spent part of our meal trying to work through the cassoulet recipe so we could serve it at a dinner party for fellow foodies.
This was one our more memorable dinners in a decade of P’Town visits..and we will absolutely be back. Oh – reservations are HIGHLY recommended. We were lucky and the staff was accommodating.

Visited October 2014 and May 2016

The Mews

429 Commercial St, P’Town

It’s been a decade since we last visited the Mews and delighted we went back (our previous visit was a mixed bag and we had decided there were better places in P’Town).
This time was a special and more formal occasion and the reviews indicated things had shifted in the right direction). Redemption was at hand.
Our start was rocky. There’s no guest parking and it was raining so I dropped off my guests (including a lady in her 90’s) at the door and began my quest to find a parking spot. Ten minutes later I made it back and found my guests had been seated in the “bistro” (my term for the upstairs bar and dining area) rather than the quieter and more formal dining area I had requested (and reserved) downstairs next to a window with a view of the beach and harbor..
Our waiter more than made-up for the seating mix-up and placed everyone at ease with his polite and witty banter. We opted to pass on starters and ordered various fish dishes for our main courses which were generally delicious (although my scallops were terrific, the pasta over which they were served was rather ordinary, watery and tasteless). My wife’s swordfish was thick, tasty and well presented.
Dessert was a “crumble” (split between the ladies) and my off-menu gelato was yummy.
Overall, a nice evening in a quiet and formal atmosphere that was a perfect memorial for our guest who had recently lost her husband.

Visited April 2016      (From my Trip Advisor post)

Tin Pan Alley

269 Commercial St., P’Town

Tin Pan Alley is just that…an alley. Or at least that’s one’s first impression. It’s a long, skinny place with a dark, traditional bar and some bistro tables at the front and a narrow aisle past the kitchen to the bright and roomy dining room and patio at the back (actually the harborside beach). We visited on a breezy, chilly day in October so we opted to stay indoors at a table overlooking the beach. Roughly a dozen and a half tables and booths, which were only lightly populated at our lunchtime visit. Food was delish. I’m a nut for clam chowder and the chef did himself proud with a yummy, thick chowder laced with loads of clams and a “secret” agave(sp??) drizzle on the top. My wife and I followed that with grilled chicken sandwiches that were done to perfection. I have no clue how things are during the summer season, but I’ll be back during other annual visits in the fall post-season.

Visited October 2015 (From my Trip Advisor posting)

Far Land Provisions

Bradford St,  P’Town

P’Town can be an expensive adventure for foodies like us. New York prices abound so we were absolutely delighted when we opted to have a picnic lunch at our nearby lodging (8 Dyer) and stumbled across Far Land. It’s a market and deli on steroids with a huge selection to eat-in or take-out. Nothing fancy..just plain good eats and the fixings that really make it work..and at a reasonable price.
Our take-out lunch consisted of two monster-sized roast beef and grilled chicken sandwiches that were hard to hold because of their size. Fresh rye bread and all the freshest of ingredients lettuce, tomatoes, avocado, Swiss cheese and tons of sliced chicken and roast beef. Topped off with a bottle of Red Rooster (California) Syrah and the tab came to about $26.00. What a civilized way to dine! (Their dine-in option consists of several tables indoors and a couple benches and tables on the porch outside.)
If you on a budget or just prefer some of life’s simple pleasures, be sure to stop at this P’Town gem.

Visited 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016               (From my Trip Advisor posting of 2013)

PLACES TO STAY IN P’TOWN:

8 DYER HOTEL

Here’s a real gem that has been one of the top Hotels/B&B’s in P’Town for years..and for good reason.  We have stayed at 8 Dyer on a half dozen occasions over the years (staying elsewhere only when we could not book a room). Since our initial visit, this beautiful, seven room guesthouse has seen three sets of owners who have each improved things over what we had thought was perfection.  Current innkeepers Steve and Brandon are the sauce that hold thing together and maintain the extraordinary level of hospitality that makes one feel like they are visiting a close family relative with exquisite taste.  The downside is that their reputation means 8 Dyer gets booked-up early (as we have found on several occasions) so we encourage planning ahead. The hotel’s website offers some great scheduling options (you can see when rooms are available) but a phone call can be helpful to see what sort of events are going on in P’town that may increase bookings.

The rooms run a range from small to comfortable..but the 8 Dyer website points out the variables. There are no super-suites, but you will be out in town most of the time, so who cares.  The hotel features a delightful spa, a small outdoor pool and table and chairs for munching on snacks or even bring some takeout from nearby Far Land Provisions (with a nice bottle of wine).   Breakfast is worth the visit.  My understanding is that Brandon and Steve bought an small but underperforming restaurant a block away and have re-positioned at as a breakfast destination. (We have not eaten there, but Culinary Institute of America trained chef Brandon is in the kitchen so I’m sure it’s world class.)

One of the best features is its location. Dyer Street is two block-long, one-way cut-through from Bradford to Commercial Street that minimizes traffic and is only a few blocks from the center of town.  P’town is a walking or biking town, so the hotel’s location makes it a perfect spot for walking north or south along Commercial (or even Bradford).

SALT HOUSE INN

6 Conwell St.  P’Town

Underimpressed.  This place started out with a bang in the form of loads of publicity from the out-of-town press and the owner’s understanding of how to use social media. We were unable to book 8 Dyer and received a “special” offer for a discounted three night stay at the Salt Inn.    By the on-line reviews and blog traffic, this was THE place to stay in P’town, so we jumped at the chance.

For starters, we noted the Inn was directly on Conwell Street, a direct route from Route 6 to Bradford (and thus a main entry point into P’town). “Directly on” was literally that because there is no sidewalk on the Inn side of the street and the building is immediately adjacent to the busy roadway. (We also noted the hotel provided earplugs for guests who were troubled by the traffic noise).  Guest parking and entry way were in the rear of the building.

The main foyer and dining area were a charming blend of antiques and comfy furniture that provided a homey ambiance. The rooms were something else. I called it prison cell Spartan while my wife called it minimalist.  Maybe “simple” might also explain things. Everything in the bedroom was spiffy white but small, with a bathroom almost the size of the bedroom (a somewhat redeeming feature),  The bedside tables were simply stools with a single wooden chair (to hold a small suitcase?). The storage area consisted of a table with two wire baskets; one marked “socks”and another marked “underwear” and a couple of hooks on the wall that I guessed was supposed to be a “closet”.  I am told this decor was the expectation of the savvy Millennial traveler. Not being of that generation, we opted to unpack only key items for the table and leave the rest in our suitcase which we put back in the trunk of the car and accessed things from there as they became needed.  Clearly not to our preferences, we tried to locate an alternative venue to stay but were told our discounted prepayment prevented any adjustments or credits by management…so we were stuck.  Two nights of rumbling trucks and squealing tires outside our window made us look forward to return home for a good nights rest.

We won’t be back.

Visited 2015

ROUX

210 Bradford Street, P’Town

Here’s an eclectic and charming B&B that’s just far enough away from the center of the P’Town Universe to make it even more delightful. It’s on the east end of town with a garden, expansive lawn and porch to separate you from the traffic of Bradford street and yet next door to a neighborhood grocery store (sandwiches, wine, etc.) and several nearby art galleries. It’s right at the only four-way stop on Bradford so speeding cars or trucks are not an issue either. And only a block away from Commercial Street as well.
The guest rooms (all six of them) are to write home about, with a colorful (and yet different) mix of sizes and decors to match any palette. Allie and Ilene have clearly invested their creative ideas and blood, sweat and tears into making this a perfect destination for anyone seeking just to get away from it all and yet close enough to dabble in the “action” (if desired).
We are old fans of P’Town and feel comfortable saying this is a gem. We were only in town for one night (attending a friend’s memorial service) and only wished we could have stayed longer. We have already encouraged friends, family and colleagues to stay at Roux if P’Town is on their bucket list.
Room Tip: “Salt” (name of the room) is tiny but charming.

Visited May 2016

LANDS END

Here’s a hoot of a place on a high peak at the western end of town with a view to Spain.  Well, not really, but it’s on the highest places in town and the view is wonderful.  The rooms are the cornerstone of this octagonal shaped B&B, each with its own, special and eclectic, themed decoration. The room in which we stayed was decorated in a southwestern theme and was right in style from the adobe appearing walls to the rustic bedposts and chairs (old logs, etc) and Native American art.  Not that many rooms and it’s a hike to get there so it’s quiet and peaceful..with a delicious breakfast every morning.

The Red Inn’s restaurant is at the foot of the hill on the water (P’Town harbor) side of the property so its not too far for a good lunch or dinner. Anywhere else in town is a hike or a car-ride away.

 

 

 

Over several decades, I have been blessed with the ability to travel throughout the World and have sampled the food and drink of multiple cultures and countries along the way. I don’t pretend to be an expert on any of these areas, but bring my own personal tastes, likes and dislikes to this blog in an effort to share elements that may resonate with those who enjoy similar likes and dislikes as they venture forth in their own personal journeys and/or adventures.